BROPHY'S SANTA BARBARA
Beyond Meat and Impossible Burger demonstrated the potential for plant-based
proteins. Now tomatoes are coming for tuna.
When a tuna marketing executive took a bite of the dehydrated tomato seasoned with
olive oil, algae extract, spices, and soy sauce early last year, he was shaken. “This is
going to be a problem for us,” he said. At least that’s how Ida Speyer, co-founder and
chief executive officer of Mimic Seafood, recalls it, designating it the highest praise she
could have imagined for the delicate slice of tuna that—despite what the marketing
executive’s taste buds indicated—contained no tuna at all.
The Madrid-based startup’s Tunato product, fabricated from a specialty tomato variety
grown in southern Spain that resembles sliced sushi-grade tuna in shape and size, is
part of a growing class of food innovations fighting for the last empty shelf in the
booming plant-based protein market: Seafood.
Faux fish, which Speyer concedes “maybe 5 or 10 years ago would have seemed too far
out, too different, or only something for vegans,” is just a tiny fraction of the alternative
protein market, dwarfed by the more mature faux meat and alt-dairy sectors.
Spain’s Mimic is banking on that. Although it halted distribution of its tomato-based
tuna when Covid-19 lockdowns hit, it plans to resume sales in several Spanish cities by
the end of the year, eventually expanding into Denmark. The startup has visions of
becoming “the Oatly of seafood,” giving the traditional protein market a run for its
money as nut and oat milks did for cow’s milk.
“I think if the dairy industry had known 10 to 15 years ago what was coming, they would
have prepared differently. The seafood industry can actually in a way benefit from what
we have seen with dairy and beef, because the change will come,” Speyer says of her
expectation that more consumers will move away from traditional seafood.
Jen Lamy, manager of The Good Food Institute says, “ If plant-based seafood maintains
its growth rate, it can catch up with fake meat’s share of the conventional market within
the next decade. The technology is “not quite there yet,” she says, but the sector’s
making progress. “If you look at photos of products from now vs. three years ago, it’s
totally a different game.”
BOTTOM LINE - The plant-based fish market is a drop in the bucket compared with
that of faux meat, but it’s growing fast as consumers try to minimize their impact on the
oceans.
BROPHY BROS.
Photo Credit Kcruts Photography
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BROPHY BROS.